After graduation he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label in 1989.Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23.Considered a reference name in the field of avant-garde fashion, works on the concept of deconstruction of the clothes to give them new meanings, referring to the freedom of the '70s sartorial rather than the standard conservative '80s where he began his career and favoring creativity and recovery instead of following an idea of fashion as luxury and ostentation. Deconstruction of the clothes means cut and fit together pieces of old clothes, put on display covers and internal parts, remove and replace the sleeves in new ways. This concept incorporates and expands the practice of punk and street style of cut and tear t-shirt and jeans. The dominant colors in his early collections are powerful colors like black, white and red.